My favorite type of shadow is a simple cast shadow. If an object is blocking the sun or light source, a shadow will be cast. Cast shadows should be painted with colors that are similar to the object itself with some warm colors added. You use warm colors, red, yellow and orange because the sun is warm. So if the sun is the light source and the object is a blue vase you would take the blue and warm it a bit with one of the warm colors mentioned to dry-brush in the shadow
For landscape paintings, the value of shadows depends on the time of day. Early morning shadows are longer and darker while afternoon shadows shorter are lighter. Following the rule that the shadow is nearly 50 percent darker than the portion of the object that is in the light will generally work well.
The direction and size of the shadow should also be carefully thought out. In the example of the blue vase, lets’ say the light is coming from a window above the vase and on the left. Since the light source is higher than the object the shadow will be cast at an angle. So a shadow on the right side of the vase and extending lower than the vase would make a realistic shadow.
The length of the shadow is also important. Using the vase example again, you certainly wouldn’t create a shadow that is twice as long as the vase itself. This would not look realistic. A short or the same size as the vase shadow would be more realistic. Try to imagine in real life situations what would happen. For landscape paintings the length of a shadow also depends on the time of day. If the sun is high in the sky, sometimes, there is little to almost no shadow cast. Imagine its’ six o’clock in the evening, and there will be a quite long shadow. Sometimes the shadows are twice as long as the subjects are.
To actually paint in the shadow you must start the shadow directly beneath or to the side of the subject. There can be a highlight on the subject but not the shadow. The shadow usually fades as you work away from the subject. So decide where it will be and paint it in, dark near the subject and using a scrubbing technique and less paint, fade as you work outward.
The last thing to remember about shadows is consistency. For example, if you are working on a landscape and there are several trees, they should all have similar shadows. Buildings should all have similar shadows. Don’t forget the chimneys.
Shadows really do create drama and add realism to landscape and still life alike. Don’t be afraid to use them, but do so carefully and thoughtfully.
Julie Shoemaker is an avid painter and hobbyist who regularly gives paintings as gifts to family and friends. To read more articles like the one here, and to see more free art tips, tricks and techniques and free step by step lessons Learn Painting Techniques or visit http://www.IamPainting.org.
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Chris on Sun, 1st Feb 2009 5:30 pm
Good post on explaining the “science” of art.
robert boyd on Sat, 16th May 2009 2:56 pm
When the shadows of trees are reflected upon water, do you first paint the shadow and then glaze the specific color of the water over it. Or do you paint the shadow over the already painted water. And must this always be done wet on wet.
Julie on Sun, 17th May 2009 3:02 am
Robert, I paint the water in first, then add my tree shadows. I also add the little white horizontal lines along the waters edge for a nice effect also. Julie