Oil Painting outdoor - Voice of Spring vol.1
May 28, 2007
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Seeing 1,000 Items And Creating One Picture - By Jimmy Cox
May 23, 2007
By Jimmy Cox
When you get ready to paint your first picture, a great thing to bear in mind is that you are working in a specific and defined space or shape. You have, not infinity to deal with, but a canvas, measuring so many inches wide by so many deep. Into this given space, this little world, you are going to put your whole conception of the landscape before you.
So something must go, something must be overlooked or done away with. That is the point that so many people, who do not understand the technique of painting, overlook. They expect the whole gamut of the things they see to be transferred to the canvas, whereas only a very few of the things can be given.
Remember, therefore, that your canvas space is your own world and not the world of actuality. You are going to create in this world, this small confined space, a picture of something you have clearly visualized from the great world of facts and fancies, which lies outside you. To do this you must condense, you must emphasize, you must suppress and you must exaggerate. So the artist does not faithfully follow the actual facts, but he creates a new thing by adapting and translating the facts into the terms of the medium he has chosen.
Now, can I help you to compose a picture? All I can say is, feel the general rhythm, place your masses in a relationship one to the other but not in set proportions. Get the “swing” of the landscape, the trend, the essential underlying structure. Exaggerate as hard as you can, dance round your canvas, let your arm be moving from its whole length, and step back constantly, so that you are not close up and just nervously putting on little dabs of paint. Let your brush be full of paint, full to overflowing, don’t work with niggardly little dabs of color.
Please do not get set in your notions. Do not on any account be hidebound. Let your imagination have full rein. If you see a tree as “a man walking” - then let your tree be as a man stepping out. Do not be obsessed by accuracy, for that is the end of all creation. You can leave out anything that is not of sufficient interest to hold your thought or your feeling.
The necessity for elimination of extraneous detail is one of the great discoveries you must make. Your medium cannot possibly translate all the detail of nature, and therefore you should try always to make a synthesis, a summary of the things before your eyes.
A wall of a building can be without all its window spaces - you can see it as a shape and leave out all the little details of the doors and windows - that does not mean that you are “faking” the subject: you are making a synthesis which can better explain your whole conception than by putting in all the details, which would only end by distracting interest from your main theme. Painting a picture in oils is like telling a story, you must make your point, but you must not get lost in a multitude of unnecessary facts and overpowering details.
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Diving Into Drawing
May 23, 2007
By Jimmy Cox
Drawing has been around for centuries. In fact, wonderfully vital drawings and paintings by primitive peoples have been discovered, which proves that many thousands of years ago the art of drawing was there, innate, in mankind. Everyone can draw, for it is an inherent human trait far more natural than writing.
Unfortunately most people lose this power as they grow older, or rather it is overlaid by more complicated mental processes. It needs only the desire to reawaken it and the courage to proceed and rapidly the power to express what one sees, in drawing and in paint, comes back again.
So take courage and go ahead.
The first thing to get is a sketchbook: not too big a one but a handy pocket size that you can carry about at all times. You can of course buy a children’s drawing book for a few cents, but this has a flimsy cover and has to be folded or rolled to carry, and that spoils the page, so a sketchbook with thinnish cartridge paper and a good stout cover is the best investment in the end. See that the paper is not too thick or too rough in surface. Nothing harder than a 3B pencil is much use. Get a black Conte crayon or black chalk pencil with the wood round it, for this is the kind of pencil that will give you most satisfaction in sketching. Of course you will need a razor blade or sharp penknife because the breaking of points is a very frequent occurrence. Do not sharpen the pencil to a fine point - just a blunted point.
Now you have your sketchbook and your pencil, what are you going to look for? What are you going to start on? Don’t start straightaway on a landscape. Just focus your attention on a few simple things that are before you in the room you are in. Something the shape of which attracts your interest, say a decanter, or a wine glass, or a vase of flowers. Draw a definite shape on the blank page of the sketchbook with a firm, thick line - say a rough oblong. Count this as your picture space: into this defined shape you are going to put your drawing.
Then begin with the part of the selected object that interests you most. Perhaps it is the bulge of the decanter - boldly draw the curve of the right-hand side and then look across and draw the corresponding curve of the other side; then go upward to the lip and the stopper, 
drawing first one side and then the other; then look at the base, the dark curve where the decanter rests upon the sideboard. You now have the shape of the object - then relate this to the glass that is near it; notice the size of the glass in relation to the decanter and repeat the process, taking into account where the two objects are placed in your oblong space.
Continuing to practice these techniques will help you get a grasp for the way drawing should feel and ultimately look.
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Getting A Feel For Oil Paint
May 23, 2007
By Jimmy Cox
Finding the right brushes and becoming familiar with the texture and nuances of oil paint is critical to successfully using this medium.
As far as brushes go, you can use hoghair oil-color brushes with this medium - two or three round-shaped ones, sizes 3, 6, and 8, and two or three flat-shaped, with one large one, size 12. These can be the usual long-handled type of brushes. They should be kept carefully and washed well with first turpentine and then soap and water after use (see Figure 14). They should be kept in a long round tin if you can find one.
You could do with a strong ex-army knapsack to hold your tin of paints and your tin of brushes, your bottles, large and small, of turpentine, and plenty of soft rag. You will also need a tin dipper, a fairly good big one with a turned-over clip at the base to clip on to your palette.
The chief point to remember is that now you are not dealing with a water medium which runs downhill and takes time to dry - you have the knowledge that almost as soon as your brush touches the paper, your paint will “stay put,” you have no need to guide washes of color to the right place, and no need to wait for drying because the color dries almost at once. But it is not wise to put one wash over another as in watercolor - you have to get the full force of your color straightaway.
The mixing of colors is just about the same as with watercolors. The difference in use is the important thing. You do not mix up a lot of color, you dip your brush slightly into the turpentine in the “dipper” fixed to your palette, find the tint on your palette, and then take only the minimum of paint. Then, with very little of the required color on your brush point, you dip it well into the turpentine and rapidly apply it to paper. You aim at a full tonal effect from the start, for your colors will be fuller and stronger than in watercolor paint.
One of the things to remember is that as you are using a more expensive medium than water to dilute your colors, you must keep the amount of turpentine in your “dipper” as clean as possible by liberal and constant use of your rags. Should your “turps” become really dirty, however, do not hesitate to pour it away and put out some more.
Your technique should be one of directness, rigorous selection, emphasis, and simplicity, are essential for using this medium, for once a brush stroke is on the gleaming white paper, it is there finally: no subsequent overlaying with other tints is going to help - in fact, this will spoil the result at once. It spoils the effect if any preliminary drawing in pencil is made on the paper; therefore it is as well to take your smallest round brush and dip it slightly in your cobalt or ultramarine blue and, with a good jab into the turpentine, start off to draw your subject in a blue outline.
Or if you consider blue is too definite a color for your drawing you can use a mixture of madder and viridian green. This, mixed with plenty of turps, will give a nice soft warm gray tint, that will make a pleasant start to your work.
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Using Watercolor Instead Of Oil
May 22, 2007
By Jimmy Cox
Although watercolor painting is many centuries old, its application as we know it today is fairly recent. Used in the past by the Egyptians on papyrus and by the Chinese on silk, it gradually evolved to become an important medium on paper. Its original use on paper was to elaborate upon line drawings with monochromatic washes. Color followed, with the line still used for drawing and modeling of form.
It was not until Winslow Homer appeared that watercolor became a medium to be handled directly on the spot in a broad manner. While these early watercolors were used as a means of study from nature for subsequent oils, they came to have all the power contained in the heavier oil medium. Watercolor continues to be a medium that lends itself readily to painting on the spot, and working directly from nature is the most vital part of learning to handle it, aside from the original intention of studying the various aspects of nature. It is only alter a long period of outdoor study that a reasonably convincing watercolor can be made in the studio.
If you have worked in oils, you will find the knowledge you have acquired in painting with this heavier medium very helpful in doing watercolors. Experience in drawing and composition, and the training of your eye to see color, will all stand you in good stead. Now all you have to do is master the technique of handling watercolor!
To acquire this technique requires much practice. When working in oils you could finally arrive at the desired effect by much mixing of color, scraping the canvas for a fresh start, and making changes by the application of an opaque color over a previously painted area. Now you must work more directly. The beauty of watercolor lies in its fresh, transparent effect, and the approach must often be one in which the value, color, and drawing are accomplished in a single operation. However, while this is the ultimate effect you may want to achieve, a subject can be painted by separating these important ingredients into progressive stages.
The paper upon which you work is also a vital factor in imparting luminosity to a watercolor painting, because the whiteness of the paper showing through the transparent color aids in establishing a brilliant effect.
The novice has a tendency to work with too small a brush on an equally small surface. I advise you to work with as large a brush as possible and to do your early work on a half sheet rather than a quarter sheet. This will help to prevent a niggling or timid approach; the larger brushes and working size will force you to work more broadly. Later, when you have acquired more technical facility, you can work on any size.
Though preliminary drawing is always stressed, as you progress you will undoubtedly want to try other methods, possibly painting a subject directly with color or combining watercolor with other media. You will find that watercolor is an excellent medium for experimentation.
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Launching Your Oil Painting Career
May 22, 2007
Oil painting is the ideal medium for the novice. It is an excellent way to study, because changes and corrections are easily made. Unwanted passages of color can be scraped off the canvas any number of times without injury to the surface.
One color can be painted over another, drawing and proportions can be corrected, and all the nuances of light and shadow can be studied experimentally. The painting can be put aside at any time, to be picked up and continued at a later date.
Some beginners choose oil without considering other media because of a reverence for the “genuine oil painting.” When they take up painting as a hobby they want to produce “pictures that show the actual brush strokes.”
Many other amateurs, who would like to work in several media but feel that their time is too limited, select oil after checking with teachers or schools or experimenting on their own. Even a person who is more interested in another medium may find, as I have, that by using oils he can more easily study color subtleties and can acquire basic knowledge that will later be applied to the medium he prefers. The old adage, “One medium helps another,” is especially true if the first one is oil.
As you progress you will soon discover that there is more to oil painting than the surface quality of the brushwork. The type of surface you work on, the preliminary staining of the surface, and the under painting all affect the finished result.
However, in your initial efforts you will want to work in a direct manner, particularly when painting outdoors. Later you can experiment in the studio with various types of under painting.
If you are just beginning to paint, you will do well to start with a reputable brand of student color. Most color manufacturers make a line of student colors along with their professional grades. These colors are appreciably less expensive and the selection is nearly as wide as in the professional line.
As you progress, you can replace the student brand with colors of professional quality, which have far greater covering quality, particularly in the Cadmiums and Blues. There are several good brands of colors available. My own choice is the Grumbacher line.
I recommend the following colors for basic use: Alizarin Crimson; Cadmium Yellow, Light; Cadmium Red, Light; French Ultramarine; Ivory Black; Light Red; Thalo Green; Yellow Ochre; Zinc or Titanium White.
These nine colors will enable you to mix the various shades of other colors that you will need for most purposes.
However, you may want to supplement these colors with: Cadmium Yellow, Deep; Cadmium Orange; Cerulean Blue; Burnt Sienna; Viridian; Cobalt Blue; Thalo Blue; Raw Umber.
Once you get your paints in order, you’re going to need something to paint on. The best and most receptive surface on which to work is stretched linen canvas. Linen, however, is relatively expensive, and cotton canvas is a good substitute.
The cotton canvas panels that fit in your paint box are the most convenient for painting outdoors and are inexpensive. They are light in weight, too, and have the added advantage of not taking up much space when stored in your studio. These first few tools are essential components of oil painting. Once you get these, you’ll be on your way to creating your masterpiece.
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Figuring Drawing: Practice Makes Perfect
May 22, 2007
The best way to hone your figuring drawing skills is to practice. Even if you are primarily interested in landscape painting, you should be able to depict incidental figures to give a feeling of life to the subject. The figure is a foil to a landscape, and if it is not executed convincingly it can destroy the effect of an otherwise good canvas.
Life drawing should be a part of your training, and, if possible, should be acquired in an art school. However, you can learn to draw the figure well by sketching people at every opportunity. Sketch people in the subway, in the park, at home, at play. Draw at all times.
Observe how people walk, sit, and stand; notice their gestures. You will discover that you can often identify someone you know at a distance by the way his head rests on his shoulders, and you will see the different postures of the old and the young. Make notes on how clothes are draped on a person, and how wrinkles form in a sleeve when the arm is bent, raised, and hanging at the side.
The drawings do not have to be large - from 2 to 6 inches will do. They will probably have to be small if you are trying to capture any action. Indicate the line of action first and then draw the figure around it. Some of your early attempts may resemble scribbling, but get the action.
Obtain a small sketchpad that can fit into your pocket or purse and carry it with you at all times. Fill the pages with sketches, using a pencil, a fountain pen, or the newer felt-tip pen. If you use a pencil, don’t use an eraser. You are not out to collect neat pads of figure drawings. If the line is not right redraw a corrected heavier line over it.
The advantage of using a pen is that it leads to a more direct handling. But do not be concerned about technical handling of the pen. Put the lines down as you feel them. Observe how the shape of a suit or a dress is affected by the figure.
In time your pads will contain a collection of both action sketches and studies of form. As these pads are filled you will develop your figure drawing and acquire enough knowledge to place a single figure or a group of figures convincingly in your composition.
While constant sketching will increase your powers of observation and general facility in handling incidental figures, some time should be spent learning at least the rudiments of anatomy. Study bone and muscle structure, so that you acquire knowledge of how it affects the figure. It is not essential to know all of the anatomical designations, but you should be able to identify and know the function of the main bones and muscles. You should know the relative proportions of the male and female figure. Most important is to know the working of the movable masses, that is, the head, the rib cage (chest), and the pelvis.
There is no substitute for drawing the figure from life, but you can get a great deal of help from wooden or plastic manikins, which are for sale at most art shops. They can be studied to advantage by checking with an anatomy book in arranging the various positions.
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Acrylic Painting Video Clip - Rob Steinke Acrylic painting workshop - A
May 21, 2007
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